What is ISO 17708?+
It is the ISO whole-shoe test for upper-to-sole adhesion. It determines the resistance to separation of the upper from the outsole, and also covers separation between adjacent layers of the outsole and tear failure of the upper or the sole. It applies to all types of footwear — cemented, vulcanised, injection moulded — where the upper is continuously assembled, which is to say a closed shoe. The current edition is ISO 17708:2018.
Why test a whole shoe rather than a bonded coupon?+
Because they answer different questions. A coupon test establishes that the adhesive is capable of a given bond strength under controlled conditions. A whole-shoe test establishes whether the factory achieved it on a curved last, with the roughing, priming, cement application and press time actually used that day. Everything that goes wrong in production lives in the gap between those two, and only the whole-shoe test can see it.
What does it mean if the upper tears instead of the bond letting go?+
That the bond is stronger than the material — commercially the best possible outcome, and not an adhesion measurement. It should be recorded as a material failure rather than averaged in as an adhesion value, because the number obtained describes the upper's tear strength, not the bond. A specification usually treats it as a pass, but the distinction has to be visible in the report.
What is sole layer separation?+
A failure between adjacent layers within the outsole unit itself, rather than at the upper. It is a construction problem in the sole — how the midsole and outsole were bonded or moulded together — and points at a different supplier and a different process from an upper-bond failure. Reporting it as an adhesion result would send a factory to fix the wrong thing entirely.
Why does the standard define ageing conditions?+
Because an adhesive that bonds well is not necessarily an adhesive that stays bonded. Heat, humidity and time can weaken a bond that tested perfectly when fresh, and footwear sits in warehouses and containers before it reaches a customer. Ageing to defined conditions before testing catches that, which is why the standard offers it as a production control tool rather than an optional extra.
Why cut the sole into a strip?+
So that the force can be divided by a width and compared with something. A whole sole peels unevenly — the bond area is wide, curved and varies in preparation along its length — so the force fluctuates in ways that have nothing to do with the adhesive. The 25 mm strip this method cuts gives a force per unit width, which is the quantity a specification is written against: 250 N over that strip is 10 N/mm. Note the width before comparing figures, because the parallel industry method cuts 30 mm and the two do not convert.
What makes gripping a shoe difficult?+
That it is not flat. A coupon peels in a plane; a shoe curves in every direction, so unless it is supported the peel front wanders round the shape of the last and the angle changes as the test runs. Since peel force depends on angle, that turns a measurement into an average over a geometry that drifted. Supporting the shoe so the separation front travels along the bond line is the practical heart of the method.