What is ISO 11644?+
It is the ISO test for the adhesion of a finish to leather, or between two adjacent layers of a finish. A strip of the finished side is bonded to a hard plate and peeled at about 90 degrees, and the force required is the adhesion value. The current edition is ISO 11644:2022, the third, published in October 2022.
Which leathers are excluded?+
Unpigmented articles and those without a continuous coating layer — the standard names nubuck, aniline, pull-up, suede and perforated leathers. The reason is practical: the method needs a smooth surface that can be bonded to a plate without the adhesive soaking in, and none of those provides one. Running it on them produces a number that describes the mounting adhesive rather than the finish.
Why does adhesive penetration matter so much?+
Because if the mounting adhesive soaks into the finish, it stiffens and reinforces the very layer being tested. The specimen is then a different material from the product, and the measured adhesion is higher than the finish would ever achieve on its own. The adhesive has to sit on top of the finish, which is why the method restricts itself to smooth, continuously coated surfaces.
What if the plate comes away instead?+
The result is void — it measured the mounting adhesive rather than the finish. This is the direct analogue of the intermediate-strip problem in ISO 2411 for coated fabrics: whenever an auxiliary bond is used to get hold of a layer, that bond has to outlast the one under test, and checking it did is part of validating each specimen.
Why does the failure locus matter?+
Because there are three possible ones and only two of them are finish adhesion. The separation can run between the finish and the leather, between two layers within the finish, or into the leather itself. The third means the finish was better attached than the corium beneath it — a legitimate finding, but not an adhesion value, and it should be reported as what it is.
Why test finish adhesion at all if the leather is strong?+
Because they are unrelated properties and the customer sees the finish. A hide can pass ISO 3376 for tensile strength and ISO 3377-2 for tear and still have a finish that lifts at a crease, rubs off at a seam or peels from a car seat bolster. Nothing in a strength test gives any warning of it, which is why finish adhesion is specified separately.
What are the units?+
Force per unit width, and as with every peel result the width convention has to be stated. Newtons per millimetre and force per some larger stated width are both in circulation across peel standards, and a figure quoted without saying which is a number that could be either.